Fetishizing ‘power’ in women characters – having them kicking ass and always being ready with a putdown – isn’t the same as writing them as human beings.

Jack Graham, in Stephen Moffat – A Case For The Prosecution, a guest post on Philip Sandifer’s blog (via linnealurks)

Not exactly BABD’s subject matter (costume design), but very much related. You can’t cry “But this character’s personality makes her WANT to be sexy and badass at the same time!” when being sexy and kicking ass are literally the only two things she’s designed around.

~Ozzie

Why I was never really sold on Bayonetta.

– wincenworks

Modesty

kristaferanka:

So yesterday, Kelly Thompson released an article for She Has No Head! where she discusses 6 recent Female Superhero costume designs that she feels are an improvement of what came prior.

Amongst the designs that were chosen was my Psylocke design, which is in the company of artists like Meredith McClaren, Ross Campbell, Mark Brooks, Jamie McKelvie, Phil Noto, and Jesus Siaz. Not a bad group of artists to be grouped with, if I do say so myself.

Basically the gist of the article was about costumes should be designed by artists who also know fashion and design, rather than just pencilers who will have to be drawing that character for their book, and how when the right person is tasked to design the costume that it will have a far better outcome. She went through and chose characters who she felt needed the update, and talked about how the redesign was an improvement. 

Characters like Psylocke, Glory, Poison Ivy, Ms Marvel, Jubilee, Valkyrie, and Domino. 

And as anything involving comics, hatred quickly followed the heels of this article. what else would you expect, right?

But within the comments, a few points were being brought up that puzzled me that I sort of wanted to address, Instead of my initial reaction which was to get into a comment war. Thankfully, that was a path I didn’t go down because I had things I needed to do with my day and I couldn’t waste it in what would undoubtedly become an insult match.

One of the ideas that kept coming up was the notion that there is a trend in current female costume designs that the designer must pander to screaming feminists by covering the character from head to toe and take away all of the characters sexiness and by result make them boring. 

Now I’ll be honest, I don’t like being yelled at by feminists. But I also don’t like to be yelled at by womanizers, or kids, or anyone. So I want to just rule that out as a motivation. No one wants to get yelled at. 

Secondly, sexiness is subjective. A character can still be considered “sexy” even if it doesn’t fit with your tastes. To say that by giving a Female character a piece of fabric to cover her ass cheeks up is ruining her sexiness, ALL that means is that YOU think that an exposed ass is sexy. There is absolutely no way to make a blanket statement about that. Some people think a baggy shirt on a girl is equally as attractive as an uber skin tight shirt.

Sexiness has NEVER been a factor when I design a character. Sex appeal ONLY comes into play when the characters PERSONALITY dictates that as a factor.

The CHARACTER must be first and foremost the inspiration and guideline for all the decisions made when trying to design the clothing. NOT what you want to see on a characters to get your rocks off. I find that frankly immature, and an insult to the character you are trying to do justice to. 

Granted, what is “correct” by the character is also incredibly subjective. Everyone see’s a character differently. This is Fact. This is the exact reason that everyone has different favourite characters, we each see something different that attracts us to them. The best a designer can hope for is that their interpretation can ideally appeal to the largest majority possible of that characters fan-base. No one wants to have a design that fans hate, but you can’t please everyone. 

And just to speak for myself, modesty was never a factor. I never approached storm’s, or psylocke’s, or spiral’s design with the sole intention of hiding their skin. The amount of real estate that ended up being covered or not was ENTIRELY dictated by my attempt to respect the character. There was no “psylocke has to be fully covered because it would be indecent for any of her skin to be showing”. I wanted to have her covered because I felt that a character who is performing stealth assassinations would want as little wound-able flesh showing. 

My go-to example of a character that should be showing skin is, of course, Emma Frost. Here is a character who prides herself on her looks. She is an incredibly confident character mentally, and likes to show off herself physically. Emma Frost flaunting it works because it works for HER. She likes control, she likes power, and one of the best tools for that is her body. She can turn heads with her body, she can command attention with it. She wouldn’t even need to use her telepathy to have someone lose focus. Emma Frost is incredibly intelligent, she knows what she is doing. There has to be a REASON for the skin. 

Even with male characters. Namor doesn’t need to cover up anything because he is indestructible. Armour would give him no benefit, and would probably hinder him. In fact, having Namor show off skin actually helps to tell a lot about him as a character. It shows his confidence, it shows he isn’t afraid to be attacked, and it largely makes sense given he lives in water. 

Colossus doesn’t need full covering, because all he has to do is become metal, and he has his own protection. 

There has to be a REASON.

To what tactical function would a spy need her cleavage hanging out? Does it help a character who is an acrobat?

There is nothing inherently wrong with cleavage, but it needs to be based on either the characters personality or by what they do. I cannot stress this enough. It cannot just be cause the artist felt like drawing a zipper down. 

Fan-Service is no longer a logical reason to do anything. The Story should be the Fan-service by being a good story and doing the character justice, and the art should support that. 

And, an Artist’s tastes are an entirely defendable reason for something, but dont try to pass it off as anything else. You can argue that it makes sense for psylocke to wear less clothing because she wants less covering her to hinder her mobility, and that does hold some water to it. It does make sense to a point. But to say the stripes of clothe on her serve any other function that just for appearance sake is laughable. There is absolutely NOTHING wrong about just saying something is drawn that way because thats what the artist likes. I do it all the time. There are things that I draw a certain way, that Ross draws a certain way, that Mark draws a certain way. It’s one of the weird double-edged swords about comics, but a lot of the audiences participation with the comic is determined by the artist and their tastes. It’s just one of those things where the artist holds a lot of power in their hands, and as such, there is a level of accountability that the artist owes the readers, but the readers arguments must come from a place of logic, rather than just “You ruined her because I want to see more tits!!”. No one has time for that

Covering characters works. Uncovering characters work. The character determines what will or will not work. There is no mandate. There are no threats. At least there weren’t for me when I designed X-force. I had incredible freedom to design as how I saw fit. As I assume how it went for the other artists that designed the marvel costumes. 

I find it funny that out of the 6 costumes in that article, 5 were designed by guys. I think that just goes to show that there isn’t this gender mental block that makes men unable to design practical costumes for the opposite gender.

Anyone can design any costume for any gender as long as they approach it with with respect and understanding. 

And thats my rant on that haha

Excellent commentary about priorities and goals in character design.

It’s baffling to me how some creators can spend time pondering over the exact history of a character, or how to compose a shot to homage to a classic work, then turn around and decide that it is VITAL that a female character has to be as sexy as possible even if it goes against all other aspects of her and her story.

I mean really, I would think the way they dress would be considered far more important an aspect about the character’s expression than the occasional line they drop about what school they went to.

– wincenworks

Took the liberty of bolding the most relevant parts for emphasis (and to break down the great wall of text that this article is).

~Ozzie

durendals:

on a textual level, a female character can dress however she wants and shouldn’t be slut-shamed and hated for what she prefers to wear.

on a metatextual level, she might still have been designed with an intention to provide fanservice.

this means that criticising a design, as opposed to a character, is neither misogyny nor slut-shaming. being displeased about the way a character has been designed is not synonymous with hating her. 

have i made myself clear?

CRYSTAL CLEAR.

PS: I love you, durendals. Why didn’t I see this post on my dash ever before? It’s perfection.

Let’s address the controversy, shall we?

Before I publish the second bingo card, I want to address the, for a lack of better word, shitstorm that ensued when a lead concept artist on Bioware’s Dragon Age: Inquisition, Matt Rhodes of mattrhodesart, decided to reblog the already-growing in popularity Female Armor Bingo.

His initial comments were met with a lot of backlash, and as much as I believe there was never a nefarious intent on his side, which is confirmed by the thoughtful follow-up apology, what he said in the original post and added edit (below) was potentially problematic and one-sided.
Still, I’m most grateful that an industry professional helped to spread the word about my work and sparked a meaningful discussion concerning character design and the significant difference in perspective between male creators and female consumers.

In reference to the whole controversy, I’m reblogging below the excellent response by flutiebear who confronted Rhodes’s arguments both pre-edit and post it (below). Then, below cut I’ll add a few quotes from other reblogs that I found worth of mention. Bolding mine.

flutiebear:

mattrhodesart:

bikiniarmorbattledamage:

Female Armor BINGO (downloadable PDF) by OzzieScribbler (yours truly)

[truncated for brevity]

Read More

This is pretty amusing. The most concise collection of tropes and cliches used in female character design that I’ve seen yet.

But it also got me thinking. Tropes and cliches are like knives: if you’re naive you’ll only hurt yourself and others, avoid them entirely and you’ll be safe but limited, OR learn how and when to use them to your advantage. Ignorance and prohibition are two paths to ruin.

Looking at this chart, I honestly think there’s a good chance that throughout my career I’ll use most of these (and many more that aren’t represented here). In fact, just reading through the list gave me a few design ideas. Of course if I’m doing my job right it should ALWAYS be in service of the story and character (not at their expense).

This issue raises a small red flag for me. As an artist, the one thing I dare not do is declare: I shan’t use this or that design element as long as I live, so help me God!

Edit: I’m going to expand on my thoughts here, as a response to some of the comments I’ve received. Over the past 10 years as a concept artist I’ve been able to see that the difference between a lasting design and a forgettable one is how much it respects the audience and the character. My unique position has afforded me a lot of face time with gamers and fans (and would-be-fans) and their desires echo my own: give us more character designs we can believe in. And now, as a father of two daughters I am more invested than ever in the fight for inclusivity and creating designs that inspire and invite EVERYONE to join in. Let me be perfectly clear: I firmly believe we will win that fight by attacking imbedded mentalities, not specific aesthetic choices. We should certainly treat the symptoms, but I don’t want that to distract from fighting the disease. For example, the chart mentions boob cups, helmetless armor and armor with holes with skin showing through. I’m watching through Game of Thrones again, so I think of Cersei Lannister’s armored gown with boob cups, Brienne of Tarth’s lack of helmet and the incredible design language used in the desert armor of Qarth (more holes than metal, with minimal fabric beneath). They are all done tastefully and in support of character and setting. Their respect for the characters and the audience led them to create unique and story-supporting designs despite checking 3 bingo boxes. I understand that this list was created out of a frustration that, frankly, I will likely never fully experience. I know that it’s targeting the worst, most flagrant examples of these tropes, and to that I say “swing away”. Concept artists/art directors/producers who perpetuate this insidious atmosphere should ABSOLUTELY be taken down a peg. But saying “we will never draw these specific things again” basically just gives the sexist mentality more power. At that point they own those aesthetics and they have no right to. I have to believe that there are a hundred ways to design backless armor that don’t insult or alienate half the audience. A smart designer could take back “armored gloves and feet but no armor on the midsection”. That could look really cool and imply a totally different fighting technique. I will (very likely) never design a battle thong, but some day an artist better than me will design an army of men and women in battle thongs and nipple armor, and will handle it with dignity and respect to the characters and the audience, and we’ll thank them for it.

I understand you want to respect the creative process, and I believe you when you say that you’re trying to be respectful to your fans.

But please understand that by distancing yourself from the above examples, by saying this chart is only targeting the “worst, most flagrant examples”, you’re trying to create distance between yourself and the problematic status quo rather than examining how your own actions might be unintentionally perpetuating it.

Your Game of Thrones example is actually a great example. I’d argue that Cersei’s boob cups and Brienne’s helmetlessness and Danaerys’s Qarth garb are part of the problem. You might not perceive this costume design to be as flagrant or egregious as, say, chain mail pasties, but the fact is that these costumes are designed to remind the viewer of their wearers’ femininity for no apparent practical reason. And it always seems to be the case in stories that feature women warriors! We viewers are always, always reminded that they are first and foremost women, not warriors — as if we’d forget! If reminders of sex characteristics are truly necessary to reveal character and develop story, then how come there aren’t more armors being designed with penis cups and chest hair windows? Who knows, without them, I might otherwise forget I’m looking at a man!

A far more successful case of costume design, I think, comes from Dragon Age 2. Take Aveline’s guard armor or Cassandra’s Seeker uniform. These are two great examples of armor worn by women, which do not feel the need to remind the viewer by construction:  DON’T FORGET THIS IS ARMOR FOR LADIES. Instead these armors are not only practical, but also fit within universe and tell a story about the women who wear them. And somehow we the viewers still manage not to forget that women are wearing them.

What I’m saying is that sexism, objectification, these things don’t always happen in flagrancies. Every now and then you’ll see something that’ll really make you grimace, but usually it’s a million little microaggressions, most of which often fly under the radar of our otherwise respectful and enlightened male colleagues. You might not think that underboob is all that bad, or see anything wrong about metal on bare skin, no matter how impractical it is. But when it’s the only representation you see of your own gender, again and again and again, you get tired of it.

You’re right that fighting female objectification in the industry isn’t about outlawing or banning certain design choices; it’s about a commitment to a more thoughtful, respectful and inclusive aesthetic. But the use of hypotheticals — well, I’m sure someone could design practical backless armor! — only serve to redirect the conversation away from its original point: that the industry status quo is sexism and female objectification. Yes, I’m sure someone could design practical backless armor, hypothetically. But that’s not the point. The point is that you and other artists/designers like you have the power to influence change through your work, and instead of rising to that challenge, you tend to distance yourself from it, by saying “well, it’s only those other guys that are sexist, not me”.

Your work, at least on DA, speaks for itself and so I give you the benefit of the doubt, Matt. But when you make a post like your original one, where you reblog this chart and laugh at it, even joke about how you’ve gotten design ideas from it — well, it makes me wonder, you know?

And below let me highlight selected quotes from other reblogs I found meaningful. To read whole posts, click on the usernames.

Pre-edit:

lethal-kitten:

This is the reason why the majority of our Dragon Age cosplay group take to crossplay. Female video game garb is unwearable, male video game garb is warm, comfortable and practical. And it’s a shame because the characters themselves are so wonderful and their clothes are often great to look at (but not to wear).

haffri (emphasis mine):

Nothing of what [Rhodes] said is nearly as important of a problem as preventing perpetuation of sexist tropes mentioned in the original post. Defending designer freedom more than fighting against blatant sexism is not a good way to go.

[…] And besides- maybe that’s the issue- this post is not about criticizing tropes and cliches, it’s about criticizing sexist tropes and cliches. That’s a completely different thing. It’s not about being unoriginal, it’s about being a misogynist.

flutiebear:

It must be nice to not have any stake in this; to not have it impact you one way or the other when some male concept artist says “ignorance and prohibition are two paths to ruin” about underboob and armor nipple pasties. But it impacts me. You have female fans, Matt, fans who are tired of the men in charge of the depiction of women in our media claiming that it’s “in service of the story” to implement boob windows and metal bikinis and other ridiculous sexualizations of female characters. And when you express attitudes like this, especially as a response to someone else’s frustration about sexism and objectification, it reminds me of my place as an outsider, both in the fantasy genre and in video games. It reminds me that this is a boys’ club in which I am still not welcome. 

syllogi (emphasis mine):

Like, when I look at that Female Armor Bingo card, I am reminded of the many times I’ve felt distinctly uncomfortable because a female character was being objectified and hypersexualized in a game, tv show or on a book cover.  I remember that it made me feel like that thing was very definitely NOT being made for me, no matter how awesome that female character was supposed to be, she was first and foremost created to be sexually appealing to men.  I remember how sad it was as a kid, being a comic book collector, who wanted more female heroes to look up to, but often finding the impractically sexed up costumes of female characters to be a giant clue that they were not being made for me, or any other woman.

eveydawn:

We ask for elements of realism by making fun of idiotic tropes, and [Rhodes] say LOL look at that, I could use that right there!  

[…] Sexy is not the main thing every female character should be.  A person is the main thing.  If you need an attribute, try greedy, bold, whimsical, bratty, or brave, but do Not send me into combat wearing a piece of armor that covers only my nipples.  Do not send me to see the main religious leader of the world wearing nothing but a thong and a bikini top.  Do not make me fight Demons wearing something out of a male fantasy.  Think about what You’d want to walk into these situations in, and design them that way.  Better yet, have an actual copy of what you’re designing made, and try walking around in it for a day- I mean anywhere.  

desdinova:

Mr. Rhodes, please, so many of us are your fans and enjoy your work.  Please understand that the reason we make charts like this is to help make this issue visible and to take the sting out of something very painful with humor.  Our concerns about hypersexualization of women in design have existed since well before video games did, but it’s a medium we love.  This wasn’t a chart of “things we think are silly,” it was a chart of “things we despise because they happen 99% to women only and remind us that neither we nor our opinions are welcome because we really only exist for wank fodder”. […]  These tropes are used to objectify female bodies in media so often we can make a bingo card of them.  This is a list of how female characters are designed in ways that male characters are almost never designed

Post-edit:

dreadwulf:

What [Rhodes] propose[s] doing might make that action more palatable and less insulting to a woman encountering that character, and I guess that’s nice? But BETTER would be if the costume was designed around utility and believability in the first place rather than exposing as much skin as possible and then maaaaaybe throwing in some kind of character detail on top of it to try to make it fit the story. 

You know. The way the masculine armors are done. 

startrekrenegades (emphasis mine):

As a man, you [Rhodes] do NOT get to decide who “takes back” or reclaims what aspects of SEXIST ARMOUR DESIGN. If women say it’s harmful, it’s your job to sit back and say, “I understand. If these are harmful design ideas, I will strive to avoid these clichés in my work, not only because they’re overdone but also because my female fans have expressed themselves and I am going to listen to them because they experience this sexism on a personal level that I do not.”

shadesofmauve (emphasis mine):

I can fully believe Rhodes meant well, and think he frequently designs very well, and I still think he put his foot in it — and yes, I’ve read the clarification he added. It ignores that the character driven art which he (and we!) want is NOT served by the above tropes the vast majority of the time; thatthis should be self-evident when you realize they’re almost never applied to men*; that immediately responding with “I’ll do these, but right!” is an affront to people who are already constantly told we are not the audience you want. Those all grate.

But what really bothers me is a phrase in his edited addition:

“I firmly believe we will win that fight by attacking imbedded mentalities, not specific aesthetic choices. We should certainly treat the symptoms, but I don’t want that to distract from fighting the disease”

That’s exactly how people dismiss these problems such that they’re never dealt with. Congratulations on passing the buck! It suggests that our visual and narrative representations aren’t important, when in fact they are one of the most important things. It’s easier to change people’s minds through story than through fact. Things that ‘creep in around the edges’ through media hit us in all sorts of ways. This isn’t distracting from fighting embedded mentalities, this is HOW you fight embedded mentalities!

blue-author (emphasis mine):

I feel like you’ve completely missed the idea inherent in a bingo card. A bingo card doesn’t say “Any of these elements are poison! Even one of them is fatal!” A bingo card makes the wry assertion that all of these elements are collectively so thick on the ground you could win a game of bingo by spotting them. You know, by filling in a row. A row. A whole row. Which means a minimum of 5 elements, but since it’s not *any* 5, a winning board’s going to have a lot more than those 5 squares covered.

THAT is the state of affairs as it stands right now, Matt. And you? You are defending it. You are defending it based on the perception of a slippery slope.

kayinnasaki (emphasis mine):

Guys have unrealistic poses and armor  or whatever to emphasize how badass they are, while women have unrealistic elements to objectify them. You can apply a lot of these to male characters. Does Skyrim guy look like he’s dressed for the cold? Of course when we see a woman do this she’s in a bikini and fur boots, but that’s sorta my point. One is STILL clearly sexist, even though they are both unrealistic. There is more to it than realisim.

Armor in most fiction is costuming. The purpose of the outfit is communicate information (even if that information is just style) to the viewer.

[…] If you armor women exactly like men while referencing realistic period armor, you’re probably going to do a good job. Also there is arguably a debt to be paid here as bad ass realistic fantasy women are sorely under-represented. But again, being unrealistic isn’t sexist. The amount of realism a setting has is part of it’s aesthetic. The issue is the double standard that occurs within that aesthetic. That super hero lady ain’t wearing skin tight materials and posing like that to show you how buff and tough she is!

nitoriaiichirou:

yeah but, cartoon women, any drawn women, aren’t wearing those skimpy and sexual clothes out of choice, they’re wearing it because someone drew them that way, normally for a reason. so so don’t go “oh maybe she chooses to fight crime in a bikini and high heels” bc a man sat at a desk and decided she was gunna wear those clothes, for a reason, for the audience or his gaze. so no, its not slut shaming, its creepy man shaming

*applause* A point that sadly needs to be constantly reiterated.
I’ve been saying exactly this for a long time now!

Bolded by yours truly.

Maybe it’s because you’re taking the same strategy you would in designing characters for comics or video games and applying it to real people, except fictional characters are a representation of how you choose to see people or wish them to be portrayed, whereas real people get to do their own choosing, because nothing is more sexist than denying someone the right to choose, regardless of what that choice may be.

wolfsisters:

there is nothing inherently liberating in showing skin

there is nothing inherently liberating in covering up

the liberation lies in the choice

RELEVANT.